greece, 2007

Next: Delphi and Nafplion

Athens

We flew from Budapest to Athens and discovered a whole different climate. Greece is a wonderful country. It reminds me of Italy. The food is great, the climate is unbeatable, and the people are friendly and relaxed.

Travelers have always described Athens, which is named for the goddess Athena, as a dirty city that's not worth much time. I disagree: it's a neat place. And since the Olympics it's gained an improved public transport system and a lot of pedestrianized areas There are a wealth of things to see, chief amongst which ...

The Parthenon on the Acropolis
... is the Acropolis. This is the view from the roof of our hotel. The word Acropolis means "city on the edge," and the name was once appropriate because it was once a working city. In fact, people lived on the hill as far back as the stone age, and it remained a good place to live because it was easily defensible and had a couple natural springs. The city flourished for thousands of years, but in Hellenistic times the hill was considered to be sacred, so building houses on it was forbidden. Pericles commissioned a number of structures to be built on it, including the Parthenon.
The Parthenon at the Acropolis
Same thing, but at night. They got a French expert on lighting monuments (apply for your Doctorate of Monument Lighting today!) and he really did a stellar job.
Odeon of Herodes Atticus next to the Acropolis
This is the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, which is right next to the Acropolis. It's Roman, built in AD 161. So, not very old.
The Parthenon and Odeon of Herodes Atticus at the Acropolis
It's a rather well-preserved theatre. Though it is only Roman.
Odeon of Herodes Atticus at the Acropolis
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Odeon of Herodes Atticus at the Acropolis with Filopappou Hill
Looking out over it, that hill in the distance is Filopappou Hill, which has a monument on the top. It's Roman, so it's practically new.
Andrea at the Acropolis
Andrea at the Acropolis. And there's a creepy guy, too.
Dogs at the Acropolis
Athens has a surprising number of stray dogs and cats. The dogs were generally big and friendly mutts, and seemed to spend much of their time sleeping in the sun. The cats ... well, they were not only common in Athens but also throughout Greece, and to avoid having half these photos be of cats I have given them their own page.
Propylaia at the Acropolis
Along with the Parthenon, Pericles commissioned a grand gate to the top of the Acropolis, the Propylaia. This is it. As you can see, it's crowded. So many people visit the Acropolis that the stone ground is smooth to the point of being polished and slippery.
Propylaia at the Acropolis
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Propylaia at the Acropolis
The Propylaia is also undergoing renovations. The present philosophy behind upkeep seems to involve replacing damaged and missing stone, which seems to be going well.
The Parthenon at the Acropolis
They're doing it to the Parthenon as well. The stone is pentelic marble, which is quarried on the nearby Mount Pentelicus and is the same stone the ancient Athenians used to build the structures.
The Parthenon at the Acropolis
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The Parthenon at the Acropolis
The Parthenon originally contained a massive gold statue of Athena and the stone above the columns was decorated with a long frieze. The statue is long gone. The frieze was taken by Lord Elgin in the nineteenth century and is now in the British Museum (I actually have a photo of us there).
The Parthenon at the Acropolis
The roof of the Parthenon was actually in great shape until the Turks decided to store gunpowder in it and had an accident.
The Parthenon at the Acropolis
But of course, building damage caused by accidents can be repaired, and they don't seem to be running out of pentelic marble.
Erechtheion at the Acropolis
One of the other remaining buildings is the Erechtheion. It's famous for its porch of the maidens. Lord Elgin took one of the maidens, and the other five are in the shiny new Acropolis Museum (which was not yet open when we visited). These statues are replicas.
Olive tree at the Erechtheion at the Acropolis
Legend has it that Athena gave the olive tree as a gift to humanity, as the olive os so useful it must have come from the gods. This olive tree at the Erechtheion was like many we saw throughout Greece. They're almost as plentiful as the cats.
Olive tree near the Acropolis
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Erechtheion at the Acropolis with Lykavittos Hill
A view of the distant Lykavittos Hill behind the Erechtheion (about which more below).
Erechtheion at the Acropolis
It was a very, very bright day, and the sky was a pretty blue that I enhanced with a polarizing filter. The Erechtheion's marble looked great in the sunlight.
Erechtheion at the Acropolis
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Erechtheion at the Acropolis
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Andrea and Ed with random kids at the Erechtheion at the Acropolis
Here we are with some random kids at the Erechtheion.
Andrea and Ed at the Erechtheion at the Acropolis
And without them.
Erechtheion at the Acropolis
The roof of part of the north porch was still in good condition.
Andrea at the Erechtheion at the Acropolis
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Rails on the Acropolis
There is a lot of building equipment on the Acropolis, like these rails used to move stone ...
Crane next to the Acropolis
... and this massive crane, one of two that sat next to the hill.
Walkway to Odeon of Herodes Atticus near the Acropolis
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Andrea at the Theatre of Dionysus next to the Acropolis
The Theatre of Dionysus next to the Acropolis is not as well preserved as the Odeon.
Theatre of Dionysus next to the Acropolis
This is where the bigwigs sat.
Trees near Ancient Agora
Happy little trees near the ancient agora, or public space, an area filled with meeting buildings, squares, monuments, theatres, temples and shrines. The word agoraphobia (an anxiety disorder often characterized by the fear of public places) comes from the word acora.
Ancient columns in the Agora
Surplus columns of some of the agora's old buildings.
Temple of Hephaestus at Ancient Agora
This is the showpiece of the agora, the Temple of Hephaestus, one of the best preserved temples of its kind. It was built at around the same time as the buildings presently on the Acropolis, then later was a Greek Orthodox church and then a museum.
Temple of Hephaestus at Ancient Agora
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Temple of Hephaestus at Ancient Agora
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Temple of Hephaestus at Ancient Agora
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Reconstructed Stoa of Attalos at Ancient Agora
One of the types of buildings in the agora was a stoa, a covered walkway or portico. The Stoa of Attalos was one of the largest, and it was reconstructed in the mid-twentieth century. It is regarded as a faithful reconstruction, aside from the fact that the pentelic marble is still white (the ancient Greeks actually painted much of their buildings and statuary in bright colors). The columns on the ground floor are of the Doric order, and the upper floor's columns are Ionic.
Reconstructed Stoa of Attalos at Ancient Agora
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Museum in reconstructed Stoa of Attalos at Ancient Agora
There's a museum in the Stoa of Attalos with quite a lot of fascinating artifacts, such as Greek coins, weapons and funerary materials. This is a stone used to assign jury duty.
Reconstructed Stoa of Attalos at Ancient Agora
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Temple of the Winds at the Roman Agora
A bit to the east is the Roman Agora, which was built much later - practically yesterday, since it's only Roman. One fantastic building in the Roman Agora is the Temple of the Winds, which was a solar clock, a weather vane and planetarium. It's in remarkable condition, though the weather vane fell of years ago.
Temple of the Winds at the Roman Agora
The friezes on the outside of the octagonal temple are great, and represent the eight winds.
Hadrian's Arch
We walked through the Plaka, or the old Turkish district, to the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which was one of the biggest temples anywhere. In front of it the Roman Emperor Hadrian (famous for his wall in northern England) built an arch. Hadrian loved Athens, and built quite a few things here.
Temple of Olympian Zeus
Here's the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Its columns are massive. Only a corner of it, and a few scattered bits, remain.
Temple of Olympian Zeus
I can't emphasize how tall these are.
Temple of Olympian Zeus
The right column here fell in the nineteenth century. It was knocked down by wind.
Temple of Olympian Zeus
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Temple of Olympian Zeus
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Moon over the Temple of Olympian Zeus
The moon over the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
Acropolis from the Temple of Olympian Zeus
Looking back along the temple at the distant Acropolis.
Zappeio Palace in the National Gardens
We walked through the National Gardens and found this rather nice building, which was closing for the night. It's the Zappeio Palace, and the people working in it were nice enough to let us wander around.
Zappeio Palace in the National Gardens
It has a wonderful round atrium that is open to the sky and lined with a two-storey portico. I couldn't get over the color of the sky - it looked like the dome in a planetarium.
Andrea in the Zappeio Palace in the National Gardens
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Parliament on Syntagma Square
In Syntagma Square, one of the major public spaces in modern Athens, we found the Greek Parliament.
Exhibits in Syntagma Station
Nice museum space, isn't it? Well, it isn't a museum.
Exhibits in Syntagma Station
It's a tube station. Believe it or not, a lot of Athens' modern underground stations feature artifacts discovered while digging to build them. The layers of history discovered in the making of this system are extraordinary. It doesn't seem to be slowing them down, as they are continuing to expand the lines.
Lykavittos Hill from the Acropolis
This is Lykavittos Hill. We saw it from the Acropolis, and at the end of our trip through Greece we stayed at a hotel quite near it. Its name reflects the belief that it used to be inhabited by wolves.
Acropolis from Lykavittos Hill
Looking back at the Acropolis from the top of the hill.
Panathenaic Stadium from Lykavittos Hill
It had a decent view of the Panathenaic Stadium, which was rebuilt in the nineteenth century and was used in the Olympics.
Agave stalks and city from Lykavittos Hill
These are agave stalks. The agave is a short plant that produces a long stalk, and they are all over Greece, particularly near the sea. They're originally from Mexico, where they are used to make tequila.
Lottery ticket salesman in cafe
A lottery ticket salesman in a cafe near Lykavittos Hill. We enjoyed the area south of the hill, as it was full of businesspeople having coffee and enjoying the city.
Andrea in cafe
In particular we liked the freshly squeezed orange juice. It's available all over Greece, always made from local oranges (or almost always - I didn't see many orange trees in central Athens).

Next: Delphi and Nafplion